Humble Hatchery Guide to Incubating Kikiriki Eggs

Before You Begin πŸ’›

Thank you for trusting Humble Hatchery with your Kikiriki hatching eggs!

Kikirikis are incredibly special micro chickens, and their small size means incubation can be slightly different from standard breeds. This guide reflects what has worked best in my own program.

πŸ‘‰ For a deeper dive, I cover this in more detail in my book Hatch Like a Scientist β€” but this page will give you everything you need to get started successfully.

Step 1: Resting Shipped Eggs πŸ“¦

If your eggs were shipped:

  • Allow eggs to rest large end up for 24 hours before incubation

  • This helps the air cell stabilize after shipping movement

πŸ‘‰ Do not skip this step β€” it can significantly impact hatch success

Step 2: Incubator Setup 🌑️

For Kikiriki eggs, I recommend:

  • A side-rolling incubator (best for small eggs)

  • Temperature set to 100Β°F

This is what works best in my setup. However:

⚠️ Every incubator is different β€” always use your best judgment and monitor your equipment.

Step 3: Early Incubation (Days 1–17)

Once eggs are placed:

  • Allow eggs to sit for 1 day before turning begins

  • Then allow automatic turning until lockdown

My Approach:

I follow a β€œset it and forget it” method

  • I do NOT candle frequently

  • I avoid opening the incubator unnecessarily

πŸ‘‰ Stability is key for Kikiriki eggs

What to Watch For:

  • Bad odor

  • Leaking eggs

  • Obviously non-viable eggs

Otherwise β€” let them develop undisturbed.

Step 4: Lockdown (Day 17) πŸ”’

On Day 17, it’s time for lockdown:

  • Candle eggs to check for signs of life

  • Remove any non-viable eggs

  • Immediately return viable eggs to the incubator

Positioning:

  • Lay eggs on their side

  • Stop all turning

Step 5: Hatch Window 🐣

Kikirikis often hatch a little earlier than standard breeds.

  • Typical hatch: Day 19

  • Some may take slightly longer β€” be patient

πŸ‘‰ Do NOT rush the process

Step 6: Assisting a Hatch (Only When Necessary)

In most cases, chicks should hatch on their own.

However, intervention may be needed if:

  • A chick pips but does not progress

  • Humidity spikes (often from other chicks hatching)

  • The chick appears β€œshrink wrapped”

If You Assist:

  • Gently expose the beak first

  • Carefully open the shell and membrane

  • Apply very light pressure to help the chick out

⚠️ Important:

  • You may encounter small blood vessels

  • If bleeding occurs, STOP and allow more time

  • Do NOT fully detach membranes if still active

πŸ‘‰ Only assist when there are clear signs of distress

Step 7: After Hatch πŸ₯

  • Allow chicks to fully dry in the incubator

  • Once dry and fluffed, move to brooder

  • Leave remaining eggs β€” some may hatch later

πŸ‘‰ Not all chicks hatch at the same time β€” this is normal

Humidity Approach πŸ’§

I personally use a dry hatch method:

  • No added water during incubation

  • Humidity increases naturally during hatch

This method has worked very well in my program.

πŸ‘‰ If you prefer a wet hatch method, I discuss this in detail in Hatch Like a Scientist

Quick Tips for Success ✨

  • Stability is more important than constant adjustment

  • Avoid opening the incubator unnecessarily

  • Trust the process β€” Kikirikis are small but resilient

  • When in doubt, observe before intervening

Final Thoughts πŸ’›

Every hatch is a learning experience.

Even with the best conditions, hatch rates can vary due to factors outside anyone’s control β€” especially with shipped eggs.

What matters most is:

  • Patience

  • Observation

  • Thoughtful decision-making

You’ve got this 🐣

Want a deeper understanding of incubation?
πŸ‘‰ Hatch Like a Scientist β€” my complete guide to hatching success is on Amazon!